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Annual Jess-Crafting Competition Ends in Controversy Over 'Decorative Stitching' Debate

Purists argue that jesses should be 'functional, period,' while a new generation of falconers insist that a contrasting saddle stitch 'hurts absolutely nobody.'

2 min read
The Falconer's Flyby
Annual Jess-Crafting Competition Ends in Controversy Over 'Decorative Stitching' Debate
The North American Falconers Association's annual jess-crafting competition devolved into a generational conflict Saturday over whether decorative stitching on functional equipment constitutes artistry or an affront to tradition. The dispute began when 26-year-old falconer Renata Anklet submitted a pair of kangaroo leather jesses featuring a contrasting saddle stitch in waxed linen thread, beveled edges, and a subtle burnished pattern along the length. The jesses were technically flawless, passing every functional test, and were also, by any objective measure, beautiful. 'That's the problem,' said competition judge and master falconer Harold Block, 68. 'They're too beautiful. Jesses are a utilitarian object. They secure a bird's legs. They will be dragged through mud, blood, and rabbit fur. Decorative stitching suggests the maker has lost sight of the object's purpose.' Anklet countered that the decorative elements added less than 0.3 grams of weight, did not affect the leather's flexibility, and that 'function and beauty are not mutually exclusive, a fact that medieval falconers understood when they tooled leather equipment for kings.' The argument rapidly divided attendees along generational lines. Falconers over 50 largely sided with Block, invoking phrases like 'a jess is not a fashion statement' and 'my birds don't care about stitching.' Falconers under 40 supported Anklet, with one noting that 'you all drive trucks with custom seat covers, don't talk to me about unnecessary aesthetics.' The competition awarded Anklet second place, with first going to a pair of plain jesses that judges described as 'perfectly serviceable,' a descriptor Anklet later called 'the most devastating insult in leatherwork.' Anklet has announced plans to enter next year's competition with embossed jesses, which she predicts 'will cause a genuine schism.'

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